Mila Gajić
Art Historian, Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade


Journal 4/5/2008/2009 (Museum of Applied Art), pages 33-43

7.05:671.1”19/20” ; 671.1:069.51(497.11)

Abstract (original language):
Odsek za metal i nakit Muzeja primenjene umetnosti u Beogradu predstavlja osamnaest predmeta iz legata Irine Simić koji se čuvaju u njegovim kolekcijama. Reč je o nakitu nastalom u XIX i XX veku, najvećim delom na tlu Evrope. U kolekciji dominiraju broševi, kako brojem tako i raznovrsnošću tipova. Osnovni motiv ovog teksta sadržan je u pokušaju da se poređenjem i stilskom analizom predmeti preciznije odrede u kontekstu vremena u kom su nastajali, uz razumevanje onovremenih tendencija u izradi nakita.

Key words: (original language)
nakit, zlato, XIX vek, kolekcija, legat, Irina Simić.

The Metalwork and Jewellery Department of the Museum of Applied Art houses a collection of jewellery from the bequest of Irina Simić. The collection consists of eighteen pieces of jewellery manufactured primarily in Europe during the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. Irina and Ljubomir Simić originate from urban Russian respectively Serbian families at the turn of the nineteenth century. Objects preserved are partly their family heirloom and partly purchases made during the life of Mrs. Simić. Most numerous are breast and neck worn pieces (brooches, pendants, medallions, necklaces) and bracelets. Material used is primarily gold and silver decorated in many ways – engraved, gilded, polished, embellished with diamonds and precious stones, multicoloured enamel or precious materials (mother of pearl, corals, shells). All the objects, particularly those produced in the nineteenth century, are typical of their time both in the sense of art and craft. However, it is for their look, elegance and craftsmanship that we would single out a lady's watch shaped as pendant (Cat. No. 7) embellished with dark blue guilloché enamel and with an image of a genre scene on its backside; further, a brooch from the second half of the nineteenth century (Cat. No. 2) deserves attention for its most decorative frame which is shaped as a tiny floral stripe of circular cross-section additionally engraved and ornate with black enamel; also a very fine cameo from the 1870s (Cat. No. 5) representing a typified profile of a young woman with carefully worked out details. Among the objects from the twentieth century some of the pieces show traits of traditional, folk art: for example, a silver necklace from Mexico (Cat. No. 16) and hinged bracelets (Cat. No, 14, 15) but there are also works of renowned Belgrade jewelers (Cat. No 10, 11) from the between-the-two-world-wars period.

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