ANDREA KLOBUČAR
art historian, Museum of Arts and Crafts, Zagreb
ZBIRKA ŽENSKE MEĐURATNE ODJEĆE MUZEJA ZA UMJETNOST I OBRT: primjer muzealizacije art déco mode
THE COLLECTION OF FEMALE DRESS FROM THE INTERWAR PERIOD IN MUSEUM OF ARTS AND CRAFTS: Example of Musealisation of Art Déco Fashion
Journal 9/2013 (Museum of Applied Art), pages 117-125
UDC:
7.05:687.12(497.5)"2011" ; 069.5(497.5)
ИД 203982860
Abstract (original language):
Muzej za umjetnost i obrt u Zagrebu posjeduje razmjerno bogatu zbirku ženske odjeće i modnog pribora iz vremena između dva svjetska rata. Iako je većina predmeta inozemne provenijencije (Austrija, Italija, Francuska), zastupljen je značajan broj predmeta koji su većinom izrađeni u zagrebačkim krojačkim i postolarskim obrtima. Na izložbi Art Déco i umjetnost u Hrvatskoj između dva rata, održanoj u Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt 2011. godine, bilo je izloženo 58 predmeta iz muzejske zbirke tekstila. Sačuvani predmeti svjedoci su jednog razdoblja u kojem su proživjeli svoj „prvi život“, stekli određeno značenje i dobili svoju povijest. Svoj „drugi život“ započeli su ulaskom u muzejsku zbirku tekstila, gdje su postali dijelom procesa muzealizacije odijevanja/mode. U kontekstu muzejske zbirke i muzejske komunikacije – izložbe, odjevni predmet dobiva novo značenje i na nov način komunicira s publikom. Na primjeru odjevnih predmeta i modnog pribora iz vremena između dva svjetska rata iz fundusa Muzeja za umjetnost i obrt, te njihovog izlaganja na izložbi Art Déco i umjetnost u Hrvatskoj između dva rata, pokazat će se da li se procesom muzealizacije odijevanja/ mode dobiva stvarna slika o odijevanju određenog vremenskog razdoblja.
Key words: (original language)
art déco, odjeća, izložba Art Déco i umjetnost u Hrvatskoj između dva rata, Muzej za umjetnost i obrt, zbirka tekstila
Summary:
Museums of the 21st century as mediators between the history and the present promote the collecting policies aimed at acquisition, research and presentation of clothing with emphasis on its social and cultural import, as well as on changes that occur when pieces of clothing become museum objects. Pieces of clothing live two lives – during the "first one" they used to emanate their owners' messages and thus they played active roles in the eras they belonged to, while in the "second one", which starts with their entrance into a museum collection, they are assigned new roles – they become witnesses of past and they transform from subjects into objects. In the process of museum communication, i.e. at exhibitions, clothing becomes a symbol of past that links visitors to their own bygone while linking them, at the same time, to past of its owner.
Museum of Arts and Crafts possesses a rich collection of clothes and fashion accessories in which the Collection of Art Déco Fashion, with its more than 400 samples of female fashion clothing and fashion accessories, documents all the changes of fashion from the beginning of the 1920s to the end of the 1930s. These objects were acquired mainly during 1960s. The largest number of these objects is of Austrian provenance, created in Vienna, followed by the items created in Croatia, mainly in Zagreb.
The exhibition "Art Déco and Art in Croatia in the Interwar Period" was held in Museum of Arts and Crafts in 2011 with the intention to represent the relations and influences of art déco as style and/or phenomenon on the Croatian art and culture of living during the period between the World Wars. The most of the exhibited pieces of clothing were the ones that were musealised in the Collection of Art Déco Fashion of Museum of Arts and Crafts. They, with their provenance, changes in modeling, and with richness of their materials give the complete picture about rapid changes in fashion design during the period between the Wars. The choice of the pieces of clothing and their contextualization within the thematic whole of the popular culture offered the visitors true image of the phenomenon of art déco as it appeared in the fashion design.
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